New Tread meets Ancient Knowledge

It was expected that “wellness” would become a $1 trillion industry by 2010 with the fastest growing and most lucrative market sector in this market being anti-aging products and services. i am not sure if this figure was reached but we are definitely seeing more interested in organic products and supplements to support young looking skin. Is this trend being driven by baby boomers refusing to get old like their parents? Partly so, but it seems everyone from young teens to the thirty some things are also looking for the miracle cream or pill that will slow the hands of time. And, if you think it is just a girl thing, think again. A report published by the Natural Marketing Institute (NMI) in 2007 showed that the fastest growing segment of today’s wellness industry is the men’s cosmeceuticals.

Cosmeceuticals are topical cosmetics that are pharmaceutical hybrids intended to enhance health and beauty through ingredients that influence the skin’s biological function.

But it is not just we put on our skin that is fascinating us there is a growing interest in what is being called “nutria-cosmetics”. These are nutritional cosmetics, products you eat or drink, that promise to improve the results of a skincare routine by working from the inside.

You may think this is a new trend but for those of us interested Ayurveda we acknowledge that humans have been looking for what keeps us healthy, happy and deeply inspired from beginning less time. Indeed, one of the translations of the word Ayurveda is, the study of longevity or more simply out how to age well or look and feel good for as long as possible.

I was fascinated to discover just recently that hundreds of years old texts talk about the same the very same issues our modern cosmetics are designed to address. You may not recognize the Sanskrit terms but their translations come up in advertizing slogans all the time.

• Vayasthapana: age defying
• Varnya: brighten skin-glow
• Sandhaniya: cell regeneration
• Vranaropana: healing
• Tvachya: nurturing
• Shothahara: anti-inflammatory
• Tvachagnivardhani: strengthening skin metabolism, and
• Tvagrasayana: retarding aging.

Ayurvedic texts mentions over 200 herbs, minerals and oils to maintain and enhance the health and beauty of the skin and these same ancient texts describe in detail how they should be applied or ingested. Packs, oils, herbal waters, powders of every kind were offered to promote ageless skin by tonifying, smoothing imperfections, and increasing hydration level, thus restoring a radiant and healthy look. You can find a number of these recipes in either of my books, Ayurvedic Beauty Care or Ayurvedic Spa. But, I would like to take this opportunity to offer a little more information about a few common Ayurvedic herbs and how they fit into the anti-aging puzzle by placing them in their ancient categories.

Vayasthapana means “maintaining youthfulness” or “arresting age”. These herbs nourish the skin and ensures its optimum physiological functions. Gotu-Kola is the foremost anti-aging herbs. One of its many properties is to enhance collagen synthesis thus supporting good skin tone.

Varnya means “youthful radiance”. This radiance or glow is one of the major signs of youthful skin according to Ayurveda. Herbs that are said to promote this glow include sandalwood powder, vetiver or khus, Indian madder or manjistha and Indian sarsaparilla or anantmul.

Sandhaniya means “protection from normal wear and tear”. These herbs are healing and regenerative for the skin. A commonly used herb in this category is Sensitive Plant or lajjalu which is said to enhance healing and regeneration of the nerves by 30 to 40%. Shea nut oil and meadowfoam seed oil in our pitta face blend are also protective.

Vranaropana means deep healing. These herbs enhance deeper healing abilities in the skin. Both gotu kola and sensitive plant, and are known for their ability to heal wounds. In the west plantain would hold this position.

Tvachya means “enhancing and nurturing”. These herbs support moisture balance and provide overall nourishment to the skin. Gotu Kola, Silk Cotton Tree, Costus and Rose
Petal are among those most widely used for this purpose.

Feeding the skin properly is very important to prevent premature aging which is why we call our face oils skin food and encourage our clients to feed their face and body.

Shothahara means “anti-inflammatory”. Inflammation is considered to be the primary cause of aging; an inflamed site forms a micro-scar that over time develops into a wrinkle or blemish. By protecting the skin against allergens, inflammatory substances, chemicals and even stress, this group of herbs provide the anti-inflammatory effect, essential to all anti-aging formulations. Rose petal, Silk Cotton Tree and Aloe Vera are examples of common Shothahara herbs.

Tvachagnivardhani means to “enhance the luster of the skin” by enhancing the skin’s own metabolism. With age or poor health the body’s metabolism generally slows down; similarly the skin’s own metabolism also weakens. Enzymes that help digestion are disrupted and through indigestion primarily metabolic toxins are created. Ayurveda calls these toxins ama. Ama in the skin clogs the subtle channels, leading to wrinkles, dryness and color anomalies and other signs of aging. Clogged channels is also said to create dullness and lack of youthful glow. Application of gota kola improves circulation promoting inner cleansing of deep impurities, it helps prevent varicose veins, cellulitis, premature aging skin, and weakened immunity to allergens and many skin diseases.

Tvagrasayana means skin rasayan or “skin rejuvenator”. These include powerful herbal formulae designed to prevent sickness and retard aging of the skin. In these category amalaki, is supreme, being a potent antioxidant, rich in Vitamin C, tannins and gallic acid.

It seems like the latest trends in beauty, health and wellness sectors are giving rise to a new realm of possibilities for Ayurvedic practitioners. These are indeed interesting times and it will be fascinating to watch the rise in popularity of Ayurvedic herbs in cosmetics and supplements.

Indeed, Ayurveda offers vast amounts of information on principles of anti-aging, skin care and anti-aging herbs and we may it see this knowledge come forward first in the spa and beauty industry.